Oil change interval advice from Ask Rob About Cars

The shop where I have my car serviced has been urging me to change my oil in my 2013 Mustang GT California Special more often. I've owned this vehicle since May 2012 and have 11K miles on it. Since I don't have time to drive it much I change the oil once a year since Ford recommends every 10K. The question is should I change it more often or is once a year with synthetic oil okay? Thank you, Russell in San Jose

Answer: Russell, modern engine oils and engine technology allow for the 10,000 mile oil change intervals. Keep in mind the manufacturer also offers a powertrain warranty for up to 100,000 miles so a 10k oil change interval is not harmful under “normal” conditions.

If your trips allow the engine to fully warm up and the oil temperature to get over 200 degrees regularly to evaporate moisture, you’re probably just fine. Keep in mind the manual says to start the engine every 15 days and allow it to reach normal operating temperature.

Ford puts particular emphasis on their oil life monitor stating a the oil change must be done within two weeks or 500 miles of the ENGINE OIL CHANGE DUE or OIL CHANGE message. Should the monitor be accidentally reset or inoperative, Ford states to change the oil at six months or 5000 miles and never exceed one year or 10,000 miles between oil changes. More extreme use as described in your manual will require more frequent changes and the readout should reflect this.

If you want laboratory data to compare, I highly recommend Blackstone Labs for a $28 oil analysis www.blackstone-labs.com. What would be interesting is how the oil life display readout correlates to the vehicle miles and the lab analysis.

Talking Transmissions Part Two

Talking Transmissions Part Two covers the Continuously Variable and Manual Transmissions, one increasing in popularity, the other sadly disappearing.

No longer an SRT, the new Viper remains one of the quicket production cars despite having an "old school" manual transmission.

Manual
The “stick shift” is the traditional purists transmission that every driver should be required to learn. It educates a driver on the interaction of the vehicle and gear selection. It is the lightest and most reliable type of transmission. Now cars like the new Corvette Stingray and Porsche 911 offer a 7-speed manual. Interestingly the Corvette has 4 “acceleration gears” ending at 147mph and 5th starts the overdrive ratio “fuel economy gears. The Carrera S has 5 “acceleration gears” ending at 158mph.
Besides weight and reliability, it is the most direct connection to the driver and the performance of the vehicle.

For classic cars, it is almost always the most desired transmission and many weren’t even offered any other way. Until recently, it was always the most fuel efficient transmission due to its simplicity and direct mechanical connection to the driveshaft. Now some performance cars such as the Corvette,
911 and Nissan 370ZX offer a computer rev-matching for expert downshifts and others like the Chevrolet Camaro ZL-1 a “no-lift” full-throttle upshift.

It is one of the most fun ways to drive car and requires the most skill on the public road, drag strip or road circuit. Disadvantages are the constant action needed to drive the car which is the biggest complaint. It is not fun in stop-n-go traffic. The car can be stalled by not applying enough power or the clutch suffer from excessive wear by not releasing it soon enough or completely. It is difficult to “launch” at the dragstrip because the clutch pedal determines how much power from the engine is applied to the drive shaft to turn the wheels in addition to managing engine power with the throttle.

Some have hill control to prevent rolling backwards but starting from an uphill position can be daunting for beginner drivers. A bad driver could mean lurching shifts, stalling the car, excessive wheelspin and almost always a prematurely worn clutch which can be a costly repair.

MPG Comparison:
Corvette Stingray 6-speed automatic 16/28, manual;  17/29 Advantage: Manual
Porsche 911 Carrera 7-speed DCT 20/28, manual;  19/27 Advantage: DCT
Subaru BRZ automatic 25/34;  manual 22/30 Advantage: Automatic*
*This large discrepancy brings up a possible advantage of the automatic being reactive to top-gear acceleration demand by immediately downshifting versus the manual requiring a downshift. Further investigation is needed.

Continuously Variable Transmission
The CVT is one of the more recent offerings that finally broke into the mass market with Nissan as well as hybrid vehicles. The concept of the CVT is the ratios vary within a set range rather than have “steps” like gear sets. Therefore "shifting" doesn't really occur, it is seamless unless “steps” are programmed due to driver familiarity, and acceleration and fuel economy can be optimized. With the primary exception being Nissan and now the Subaru WRX, it’s perfect for lower-powered, fuel-efficient oriented vehicles.

While climbing a hill may be very smooth, when accelerating, the engine will stay at the rpm that is demanded for the rate of acceleration chosen. For example at wide open throttle, the engine will sit at redline until the driver eases up. So the droning can become tiresome and a bit disconcerting. You won’t find many technicians that are familiar with repairing this type of transmission.

Oddly you can almost compare it to an electric vehicle which has a direct drive without multiple gears and also to a Top-Fuel dragster that uses clutch slippage to modulate power to the wheels while the engine stays at full power. Time will tell if it shows up in racing applications but there will need to be leap in materials and ability to handle power.

MPG Comparison:
Honda Accord 2.4L automatic 26/34, manual 24/34;  CVT 27/36 Advantage: CVT
Subaru WRX manual 21/28;  CVT 19/25 Advantage: Manual

There are many choices in transmissions now and its best to experience whatever is available in the make and model to determine which one is best for you. Obviously one transmission type may be an advantage in one car and not in another.

More power will equal more all-wheel drive

I stated the horsepower race is over, but I didn't say big horsepower cars will no longer be sold. What we will see is a trend for all-wheel drive (AWD) for high horsepower cars. Rear-wheel drive cars with that power level will spin their tires at highway speeds. Can you imagine utilizing that power from a standstill? Hence the reason for the 60mph to 130mph performance standard become more popular and replacing the quarter-mile. See my article here.

What does Audi, Bugatti, Lamborghini, Nissan, Porsche and all have in common? They offer all-wheel drive in their most powerful cars, except Porsche who still believes in offering the ultimate experience with the Porsche GT2. Even Ferrari has looked carefully into an AWD drive system now that their production cars are over the 600hp mark.

What are the disadvantages? Weight and powertrain loss which translates worse mileage. Cars are gaining weight anyway, in fact becoming obese. Look at the wheelbase-to-weight ratio of the Nissan GT-R and Mustang GT500 for example. Adding all-wheel drive won't make much difference. Mileage continues to improve with various technologies as well. I don't think it is a major penalty and actually contributes to the safety and drivability of the car, especially in adverse condtions. Not that these cars are driven often in the rain, but it sure helps.

Some other advantages are quicker acceleration due to more aggressive gearing. Check out the overall gearing the Nissan GT-R and Porsche Panamera. Each gear has a roughly 30mph spread or less! This allows for fantastic acceleration. Mileage isn't a big tradeoff when the top gear is the one used most of the time when traveling any appreciable distance anyway.

Another advantage is easier and drivabilty during adverse conditions. Even though the performance tires get hard and slippery in cold weather, it is the wet weather where all-wheel drive will come into play. However, all-wheel drive does NOT mean shorter braking distances or better emergency maneuvers. So don't confuse pace with safety.

As long as development continues for these ultra high performance cars, even though we won't see major leaps in horsepower any more, I believe we will see more and more all-wheel drive models.

Ask Rob About Cars 12-20-09

Question: What is the cost estimate on changing a ’72 Impala Custom Coupe(Hard top) into a convertible top?
-T.D. Wise

Answer: Thank you for your question! A convertible top conversion is a huge undertaking but companies have been doing it successfully for years. Figure about $15,000 to $20,000 for a professional job.

Additional structural bracing must be added as well so weight will be added. For vehicles designed with a convertible model in mind, the weight difference is negligible. A good example is the Chevrolet Corvette. For others such as the BMW 135i, the convertible is over 300lbs heavier. An aftermarket conversion means you'll feel the chassis flex over bumps and handling will be compromised. This isn't uncommon from factory convertibles as well. Other drawbacks are the value will probably be negatively affected and safety is compromised.

The process is time consuming but there are a couple of companies that have been doing it quite successfully for years with impressive results. Newport Convertible Engineering is one of them. Another is a regular SEMA participant called Drop Top Customs by Convertible Builders LLC.

Good luck and thank you for your question.
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Have a question about cars you would like answered? Want to know about performance, racing, modifying, shopping, makes, models, events, etc? Ask me here: AskRobAboutCars@gmail.com and I'll do my best to answer your question and publish it here on Examiner.com!

Drag racing tips for your street car

Many amateur drag racers already know the tricks, tips and techniques to help their car go faster and more quickly at the dragstrip. However, there could be a few you're not aware of. Additionally, there is one potential major misconception and a technique for automatic and perhaps manual transmission cars that could be key as well. Listed are some obvious old-school and some not so obvious tips due to rampant electronics in modern cars.

Weight reduction - easily established by racing with a low tank of fuel. Modern fuel injected cars won't run lean with less fuel - don't worry. Remove the spare tire, etc. Removing rear seats (if equipped) is not uncommon. However, a totally stripped interior, if a daily driver or even weekend car, just really looks cheap and junky unless the interior is purpose built and finished for racing. Edit: Extra weight in the rear may allow for a lower 60-foot time and hence lower ET while making only a minor difference in trap speed. Experimentation is the key. 

Run cooler - icing the intake manifold. Cold air is denser air which translates to more horsepower. A hot engine will heat incoming air. There isn't much that can be done with the ambient air temperature, but running extra hot doesn't help. Without going deeply into modifications, a lower temperature thermostat is used for this reason. Push your car if feasible instead of the stop-n-go in the staging lanes. There are handheld tuning tools and even fusebox modifications that allow the cooling fans to start and run at lower than factory-set temperatures. Being the only guy pushing your nearly 2-ton car gets old real fast.

Something you may not know regarding running cooler. Some cars actually make more horsepower due to fuel programming when coolant temperatures are below 180 degrees vs. the normal operating temperatures of 200 degrees or higher. The balance of engine temperature, fuel economy and emissions is altered when seeking maximum power at wide open throttle.

Tires - lower tire pressure may very well be worse for two reasons. Losing traction from lack of grip means sitting and spinning while your opponent is accelerating. Also, if there is an increase in the rolling resistance of the tires, that is a parasitic drag. Every little bit counts when counting in tenths of a second or miles per hour.

When equipped with high performance low-profile tires which have stiff sidewalls, a common misconception is that if you lower the tire pressure significantly, you'll have more traction. This is because racing slicks use lower tire pressure to soften the sidewalls and increase the size of the contact patch. If the modern low-profile tires have structurally stiff sidewalls, less air will mean less contact patch in the center of the tire while the sidewalls maintain their stiffness. What is very important here is knowing how your tires respond to air pressure. Unless there is an established technique that is getting 60ft times below 2.0 seconds, try starting with pressure in the high 30s and work your way down. You may find a range that your car performs the best is far higher than those that are running 22psi in their low-profile 35 or 45 series high performance tires.

One last point regarding tires. The smoky burnouts look and sound fun, but do it for too long and a street tire can become slippery rather than sticky. A general rule used for non-drag radial street tires is do it just long enough to see smoke, then stop.

Fold your mirrors inward. Minor I know, it sounds silly, but trapping at 109.9mph vs. 110 can be frustrating. The competitors at the Bonneville Salt Flats who use duct tape to seal body gaps wouldn't laugh. Do you think that's allowed at the Texas Mile?

If equipped with adaptive shock absorbers, the "comfort" mode may allow for more weight transfer to the rear, facilitating better traction and a better launch. Conversely, "comfort" mode may also trigger a slower shift from the transmission with more slippage and even at a lower rpm. Who the heck drag races a car with a "comfort mode" anyway? Well, Mercedes Benz E55 owners with smaller-than-stock supercharger pulleys have been known to run 10-second quarter mile times. Crazy but it really pays to know how the various electronics influence the behavior of the vehicle.

Use a toilet brush to scrape debris off the tires. Buy a new one at the grocery store (please) and before you get in the staging lanes, a quick scrub will remove some of the larger debris. Does it work? Well I'd say it doesn't hurt. Pebbles in the tread can cause voids in the contact patch.

Related to the toilet brush, VHT track bite traction compound helps immensely for traction off the line. Spray after taking off the debris and preferably by crew member after doing a brief burnout on your street tires. Granted, if track prep is fresh, this probably isn't necessary. At some tracks, it's essential for street tire cars. I wouldn't be surprised if some of the street tire equipped cars that run fantastic times do this during track rental days.

Adaptive transmissions and electronics can be the most confusing and impactful of the various necessary steps to run the best times. It's important understand your car and how it reacts. Read up on the forums from other owners for their techniques. Others may do certain routines not even realizing why they seem to work. I'll list examples of how some cars respond to various inputs.

A slow diagnostic transmission shift may occur after start-up. Not noticed during daily driving, but at full-throttle, it could be painfully apparent, hurting trap speeds. One resolution I'm aware of is to drive over 20mph before lining up at the lights so the initial 2nd to 3rd gear shift is done. Even a single or dual clutch automated manual might do this. At some dragstrips like Infineon Raceway at Sears Point, the staging lanes are so close to the "christmas tree" this occurs.

Manually shifting the automatic transmission, while not as consistent, may make for firmer shifts. On the other hand, another car may shift better if simply left in "Drive". Further complicating things nowadays some mechanical tachometers actually can't keep up with the engine speed which means easily "banging" off the rev limiter when manually shifting while trying to judge the optimum shift rpm. Hitting the rev limiter means blowing your run and maybe losing. Lexus actually has a digitally simulated tachometer for this very reason in the new LF-A. Remember, this can apply to automatics, dual clutch and single clutch automated manual transmissions.

Lastly, when you sometimes pull the fuse to the transmission, it resets the "adaptives". What this means is some types transmissions will "learn" how you were driving previously and mimic that. For example, if you're idling at the stoplight waiting to enter the track, slowly driving to tech inspection and finally in the pits, your transmission could possibly store this and repeat this in the form of sluggish yet smooth shifts. Pulling the fuse will reset it to the default setting and the wide-open throttle will signal faster and firmer shifts. This can really make for a literal checklist.

Modern cars with all the electronics that make our lives easier and safer also are a pain in the butt to extract the maximum performance they are capable of. Keep in mind the basics - keep it cool, learn how your tires react to air pressure changes and finally learn how the electronic nannies hurt or help your car.
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Have a question about cars you would like answered? Want to know about performance, racing, modifying, shopping, makes, models, events, etc? Ask me here: AskRobAboutCars@gmail.com and I'll do my best to answer your question and publish it here on Examiner.com!

How fast? And is it stock? Bone Stock defined

How quick and is it bone stock? That is the question among fans and owners of various cars with lots of debate about who is faster. Top speed is easily measured by magazines and meaningless in terms of acceleration. Zero to 60mph sounds good but doesn't tell the whole story. The 60-130mph timing is growing in popularity but many don't have the means to measure it. My article about that here. It all comes back the the 1/4 mile drag race.

The trap speed is the real indicator of which car is quicker once rolling and takes out the factor of a bad start (launch). In this age of the internet, claims and scanned timeslips can be seen across the country causing instant rivalries and debates. But the question remains, is it stock or modified? Is it just as it was off the showroom floor or has it been secretly enhanced?

The following examples are trap speeds that push the envelope of believability and all of them have the these factors in common: Great driving, proper vehicle preparation and cold, crisp air for maximum horsepower output. Examples such as: Corvette ZR1: 132mph, Dodge Viper ACR: 130mph, Corvette Z-06: 129mph, Dodge Viper 4th gen: 129mph, 03/04 Ford "Terminator" Cobra: 115mph, SRT-8 Charger/300C: 111mph, 05/06 Pontiac GTO: 110mph, 98-02 Camaro/Trans-Am: 110mph, Dodge Challenger R/T: 108mph and many more. Funny thing in the realm of "who is faster debates" is that in most cases, subtract 1mph from many of those and there are suddenly multiple examples.

A "bone stock" vehicle must be as if it rolled off the showroom floor. There are many ways to "cheat" but no performance modifications are allowed. In another article I'll list some drag racing tips for those looking to maximize the performance from their street car.

The rules of "bone stock" are as follows: The original or similar paper air intake filter must be in place. The stock shifting mechanism cannot be substituted for a short-throw shifter, the tires must not be designed for drag racing (drag radials). The vehicle cannot have weight reduction by removing parts. The spare tire is debatable but that weight difference is easily made up with differences in driver weights so I say it's okay. The exhaust as it came from the showroom floor must remain as well.

When magazines test cars, they may be criticized for not representing the "real world". If you take into consideration they don't do any type of weight reduction, a full tank of gas usuallyy, no powershifting, no "drag prep" techniques, they start to look pretty realistic. Another factor is automated clutch cars (single and dual) and fully automatics (torque converter) will have minimal variance. Finally, taking into account the magazines sometimes have fairly fast times because they do not use a dragstrip where the last 60 feet is used as an average for the trap speed, the results are spot-on for probably 90% of the bell curve. Variance due to condtions alone can be huge. A 50 degree swing in outdoor temperatures can translate to about 5mph.

Really the meaning of "bone stock" is pretty basic and the trap speeds listed are in the extreme minority and a couple are no doubt questionable. Others are verified and it's really a simple rule: The same equipment as when the car rolled off the showroom floor, from the factory, no more, no less.

High Mileage Tires - Test Results on the Toyota Prius

The Tire Rack recently tested six environmentally friendly tires designed for low rolling resistance for higher miles per gallon vs. the original tire equipped on the Toyota Prius. The results were surprising and quite promising. See the report here, "When Round and Black Becomes Lean and Green"

It was always an interesting dilemma regarding tires and how they perform. Get more tread life from your tires and sacrifice performance or emergency maneuver capability (braking distance) due to hard compounds. Achieve better performance and suffer from faster tire wear and higher cost of ownership.

I never understood why low rolling resistance tires would wear out quickly. The assumption was always a hard tire would have less rolling resistance and therefore would last longer. Instead, as explained by Matt Edmonds, Vice President of Marketing at The Tire Rack, the low rolling resistance tires in the past would "give themselves up" to the road, hence wearing faster. But due to advances in tire compound technology and tread design, this is no longer the case. These modern tires now show advantages over the same model that comes on the car, in this case a Toyota Prius, from the factory. Check out the Test Result Charts here.

An interesting observation is that the original Goodyear Integrity tires perform the best in the dry, but not by a large margin. However, they were rather poor in the wet. Especially in wet braking distance, inexcusably worse than the rest. Of course, when the tire was first introduced, it may have been the ideal choice for cost and performance.

Tread wear would be the final aspect that a 550 mile test loop cannot show. However, looking in the "warranty" link for each tire, most have very good tread life warranties. Contrast that with more expensive (albeit larger/wider) high performance tires that last 20,000 miles if you're lucky. and the appeal of lower operating costs and less waste looks very attractive. One thing about all-season tires, they don't react negatively to cold temperatures like high performance tires. Here is my idea for a tread temperature measurement feature.

Take a look at the test results and you'll see not all tires are created equal. The variance is not just the tread pattern. The Tire Rack is an excellent resource for information including tires and equipment. Even if you don't buy from them, when shopping for new tires many retail outlets will have a price matching policy to within a certain amount so you always know you're getting a good deal.

Now when shopping for tires for your daily-driver, a low rolling resistant tire is no longer a compromise in safety or tread life. As technology advances with a continued emphasis on safety and miles per gallon, tires continue to be another avenue of improvement as well.

Got a question about cars you would like answered? Performance, racing, modifying, shopping, makes, models, events, etc? Ask me here: AskRobAboutCars@gmail.com and I'll do my best to answer your question and publish it here on Examiner.com!

Ask Rob About Cars 9-27-09 Domestic Performance Sedan

Question: Hey man, I currently have an '05 LS2 GTO (in manual) and next year, I was looking into getting something else frivolous like a Corvette. But recently, I've really started to get tired of sitting in traffic with the GTO's s****y shifter (I have the ripshift but am constantly having to take it all apart and reloctite s**t), and the shot stock suspension. On top of that, the GTO's small trunk and pain-in-the-ass rear seat access has really started to bug me. And lastly, I am starting to give real thought to the possibility of having an auto in my next car. We go out with our friends quite a lot these days, and I usually can't drink because I end up driving, and the wife can't drive stick, and further has no desire to learn. Like, at all. So, my next car, I'm thinking needs to be something she can drive.

NOW THEN. This thinking led me to a series of needs for my next car (which by the way, my budget is $35,000 max):- Big trunk- Four doors- big honking American V8- Still needs to be pretty fast (in my past, I've gone from a Terminator cobra to a Mini Cooper S, I'll never make THAT mistake again)- all around useable space but still pretty quick, and fairly easy to mod.- needs to be an auto so the wife can drive it.So, with all these paremeters in mind, there were really only four or five cars that came to mind as possibilities:

1. Last gen CTS-V. The horror stories surrounding the rear end were enough to instantly disqualify this car.
2. G8 GT/GXP. GXPs are still going for massive cash, and the GT's interior is appalling. Typical GM plastic b******t. Everything else was what I needed, I just can't go back to a chintzy interior.
3. So that leaves me with the SRT8 Charger or 300 SRT8 as possibilities. I am strongly leaning towards the 300 SRT8s, which brings me to the main question: can you give me any information about these cars? I don't want to join an SRT board because they're really biased.

Moddability? How well do bolt-ons do for the car? (no FI or head/cam) Readers: This means no forced induction (turbo or supercharger) or cylinder heads and camshaft. Both are more expensive, extensive and significant "power adders".

RELIABILITY? The GTO is reliable, that is, the ENGINE is reliable, but the suspension is pure s**t, and I don't want another car I need to replace every single godd**n part on for it to be decent.

Is there a big trunk? Is there a pass-through for long items?- How does the back seat compare?- Is the auto a five or six speed?- Anything I should watch out for when looking at a used one (either Charger or 300)Thanks man.- SS

ANSWER: Hey SS, thank you for your inquiry.

The options you list with your requirements are all viable, except the 1st generation CTS-V is only available in a 6-speed manual. Interestingly, the G8 owners seem to like their interiors but really it's a matter of preference. What may not look so hot may feel and operate pretty well.

Modability: The 425hp 6.1 liter in the SRT-8s respond very nicely to bolt-on modifications and with a cold-air intake, a cat-back exhaust system and a dyno tune with a handheld tuner from Diablosport you can expect over 400 rear wheel horsepower (rwhp) on 91 octane gas. Bone stock they usually dyno at 355 to 375rwhp. Besides other tuning options, the revised shifting into 2nd and 3rd due to the reduced torque management really wakes the car up. Trap speed in the quarter mile increase 3-4 mph to maximum of 114mph and capable of ETs in the 12.6 to 12.7 range depending upon the sixty-foot time.

Reliability - Is quite satisfactory among thousands of owners. A potential sunroof rattle may exist and the excessive brake dust and radiator fluid odor have most likely been already addressed by a previous owner or non-existant on the newer models.

The trunk space is excellent and very deep and the rear seats do fold down for a pass through. Two adult-sized bicycles can fit with the trunk closed provided you take off the front wheels.

Rear seat room is also quite good and seats 2 adults comfortably and 3 isn't too bad either. Keep in mind the LX platform has a 120" wheelbase which is huge by most standards and makes for a lot of interior and cargo space.

The Mercedes sourced 5speed automatic is quite stout and despite the current 13 city / 18 highway rating, you'll see 20+mpg at 70mph stock and 22-23mpg when tuned. Figure 13mpg in the suburbs with a heavy foot. There are "deadspots" in 2nd and 3rd gear so knowing the powerband is important if hard acceleration is wanted going from a roll. The car is quicker if you let it upshift itself. However, downshifting is fun only after doing exhaust work.

It should be noted the suspension is stiffer on the Charger and handles noticably better than the 300 (body roll and jounce) but doesn't have quite as nice as an interior. The '08s have revised shocks for less harshness. The Brembo calipers are red on the Chargers, silver on the 300s.

Things to look out for when buying one are the same as any other car - crash damage, paintwork, etc. The owners of the SRT-8s tend to be maticulous enthusiasts so maintenance records may be provided besides what was done at the dealer. Going back to previous mentions, check the radiator fluid in the overflow tank to see if there is any debris. Brake rotors should be slotted (per a technical service bulletin) for prior year models and once warmed up, if it shifts from 1st to 2nd by itself despite being in "manual" mode. That is the preference because the tachometer and response to the autostick doesn't match the actual engine rpms and bouncing off the rev limiter is a frustrating result. The factory navigation system is very good but not a touch screen.

I highly recommend the 300cforums and Chargerforums along with the LXforums for vast technical knowledge, how-tos, a timeslip database and an added bonus, SRT-8 Engineer Chat Sessions that occur monthly on the first two.

Whichever you choose, you'll love it. Let me know if you have further questions.

Got a question about cars you would like answered? Performance, racing, modifying, shopping, makes, models, events, etc? Ask me here: AskRobAboutCars@gmail.com and I'll do my best to answer your question and publish it here on Examiner.com!

Ask Rob About Cars 9-23-09

Question: I loved your article, despite that I fall into the category of the owner of a lifted truck.
I am looking into lowering my truck now, and was wondering if you had a price range I would be looking at. I didn't see any mention in the article.

Thanks so much!
Christina- Los Angeles

Answer: Christina, thank you for your question. To give a specific answer, one would need to know the year/make/model of your truck as well as how extensive (high) the lift is. Hopefully it isn't too high!

Your best bet to return to "stock" height from a cost standpoint is to contact shops that specialize in trucks and 4x4s. Lift kits are very common and it's rare for a lifted truck to be lowered back to the stock ride height unless for resale purposes. Therefore the original parts sit may very well be sitting unused. Also, contact the dealers of for the make of your truck in your area and ask who does their conversions as well. Find out if they have any of these original parts as well, commonly called "take-offs".

More good news is that the "take-offs" many times end up sitting around and heavily discounted. So instead of spending potentially thousands of dollars in brand-new OEM parts if you have a high lift, you might be able to get away spending a couple hundred dollars for the parts or potentially, pay nothing for the parts and just pay the labor!

It's also likely these "take-offs" are essentially brand new, having been taken off the truck within a few hundred miles or even less.

Got a question about cars you would like answered? Performance, racing, modifying, shopping, makes, models, events, etc? Ask me here: AskRobAboutCars@gmail.com and I'll do my best to answer your question and publish it here on Examiner.com!