Sunday, January 17, 2010

Audi A5 Quattro coupe review and test drive - sublime perfection

When the interior of the car you're driving puts a smile on your face and you don't mind you could have another 140 horsepower, it's immensely satisfying. The Audi A5 is a luxury coupe that must be driven to be appreciated.

Although not as aggressively styled as it's 354hp sibling, the S5, it has beautiful lines with some classy exterior touches. The headlight and tail light assemblies have LED accent lighting which is quite distinctive and the body lines are subtly aggressive. See the slideshow for some highlights of the exterior.

Opening the hood, the 211hp 4-cylinder engine seems properly placed as opposed to past and current Audi models that appear to have too much mass in front of the wheels. Not that Audi's have flawed designs, its that the A5 engine bay with the 2.0 liter engine just looks "proper". See the slideshow for a comparison to the S5 with the V-8 engine hanging over the front axles. The trunk is roomy and nicely finished as well with hidden hinges.

The interior should be called a occupant interface environment instead of a cockpit. The 8-way power seats are excellent with adjustable lower thigh support. The right hand falls naturally to the control wheel and buttons for the Audi Multi Media Interface (MMI) navigation and system. Voice control for the phone, 3D navigation and iPod integration with a 40-GB hard drive are among it's many features with a beautiful 7" display screen. If think you don't need a vehicle navigation system because you have your own handheld, check out the features of the vehicle system integration available at your fingertips. You can read more about it here. It also includes a television tuner! Reaching for the dial and buttons isn't necessary like a dashboard mounted system. There are also separate controls for the heating and air conditioning since those are accessed more frequently by both passengers.

The outward view in all directions is excellent and I'm now a big fan of back-up cameras. What happened to turning around and looking behind you and using mirrors? This camera has a fish-eye lens that allows you to see past the rear of tall trucks and SUVs that park next to you when backing out of a parking space. The other reason is to see small children trailing behind lousy parents in parking lots.

The rear window view made me think of the difference vs. a recent view of the Cadillac CTS-V sedan pictured in the slideshow here. The upcoming CTS coupe sits 2" lower and if that means the roofline is even lower, a back-up camera should be mandatory. I still say the non-V coupe will be a failure and the coupe production will be a financial mistake. Read more here.
Rear seat room is limited but well laid out considering the size of the car. 6-footers must sit in front not unlike any other small coupe.

This car was finished in Aluminum "Hologram" interior which resembles a carbon fiber pattern. One complaint about carbon fiber interior finishes I've heard is it's propensity to scratch. While it looks nice, it's still an overlay for looks instead of structural rigidity. The aluminum is a nice alternative.

Driving the car was a delight. I was half-expecting massive turbo lag after a bad experience with a rental Volkswagen Passat 1.8 turbo from around 2004. Instead power response was immediate and fantastically tuned with throttle pedal travel. As my foot moved, the car responded urgently yet very smoothly. Credit must be given to 258 ft lbs of torque from 1500 to 4200rpm. It was quiet and virtually lag free. Despite requiring 91 octane gas, a 22mpg city and 30mpg highway and a 17.17 gallon tank makes it very satisfactory daily driver.

Acceleration above 70mph was little soft but if track days, 100mph blasts and drag racing are not your on your radar, 211hp and a bit over 3583lbs works great in the daily grind of commuting. All-wheel drive is nice to have as well not matter what.

Another very attractive aspect was the $1,450 sport package which include 19" wheels and 255/35 tires, sport front seats with lumbar support, sport suspension and shift paddles for the 6-speed Tiptronic automatic transmission. A bargain if there ever was one.

The sport suspension made itself apparent in two notable ways. The ride over a particularly bumpy road was firm yet didn't shake or crash. The owner reported his previous generation BMW M3 (E46 2000-2007 model years) was quite bad over the same road. Hitting an off ramp at a high speed, there was no lateral shift in the chassis due to slop or tolerances in the suspension components. It was incredibly confidence inspiring.

There is so much more to the technological aspects of the car than can be discussed here but if a luxury coupe is what you're looking for, the Audi should not be skipped when shopping. For more detailed information on the A5 coupe from Audi USA click here.
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Have a question about cars you would like answered? Want to know about performance, racing, modifying, shopping, makes, models, events, etc? Ask me here: AskRobAboutCars@gmail.com and I'll do my best to answer your question and publish it here on Examiner.com!

Silicon Valley Auto International Auto Show 2010 slideshow of customs and modified cars


As mentioned in my previous article here, one of the highlights of the show was the South Hall with numerous custom and modified cars, low riders, trucks, etc. There was even some live entertainment and dancing.
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Have a question about cars you would like answered? Want to know about performance, racing, modifying, shopping, makes, models, events, etc? Ask me here: AskRobAboutCars@gmail.com and I'll do my best to answer your question and publish it here on Examiner.com!

Silicon Valley International Auto Show 2010 slideshow commentary

Observations made while photographing the cars and making comparisons. Easily done while being so accessible and in close proximity to each other.

Click here for the review of the show.


Click here for the slideshow of the South Hall featuring custom and modified cars
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Have a question about cars you would like answered? Want to know about performance, racing, modifying, shopping, makes, models, events, etc? Ask me here: askrobaboutcars@gmail.com and I'll do my best to answer your question and publish it here on Examiner.com!

Silicon Valley Auto International Auto Show 2010 review and pictures


Mixed emotions is how I would describe the 2010 San Jose Auto Show. If it wasn't for club participation and the South Hall display of customs, it would have been downright dismal. Lack of manufacturer participation is the biggest reason. San Jose being a 3rd tier market in the auto show circuit with limited show space doesn't help either.

It was a sea of drab colored SUVs, crossovers and trucks with no concept cars. Silver is a classy color, but this is a show so lets see some colors in the palettes. Unheard of was a used car section filling space on the main floor.

What was missing was especially notable. Audi, Mercedes Benz , Nissan and Porsche were nowhere to be seen so listing them on the auto show program was in poor taste. I went two days and never noticed Infiniti despite the show map. There was no Dodge Viper or ACR (the fastest production car around the famous Nurburgring). Ford didn't have a GT500 or Mustang GT unless it was hidden behind some trucks. Lexus didn't have an IS-F or LS-A - both flagship performance models. No BMW M3 either.

Well wasn't fuel economy the theme? Could have fooled me with sub-20mpg "hybrid" SUVs and crossovers, only one Toyota Prius and Tesla was oddly missing.

After the big shows in LA, Chicago, Detroit and New York, a 2nd tier show is San Francisco at the Mascone Center. Nearly 5 times the space of the San Jose convention center and offers a lot more variety. But there is still space for the aforementioned missing manufacturers even if the multi-million dollar, multi-media, multi-level, multi-host model displays don't make it to the Bay Area. This economy sucks.

There were highlights of course. The Camaros Limited Nor-Cal club had main floor space which was a supplement to Chevrolet's excellent variety of SEMA Camaros, Corvette ZR1 and Grand Sport. Even so, as mentioned Audi, Mercedes and Porsche could easily have placed their flagship models where the classic (and roped off) Camaros, used cars and eating area took up space. Same with Lamborghini and Ferrari.

Making cross comparisons were easy and interesting. The Ride & Drive is a nice program. Being able to climb all over the cars is a lot of fun for kids even though I hate the fact gear selection handles are moved for theft purposes.. The admission price of $9 is a bargain. A free one-year subscription to Motor Trend is an even better deal. After all, they hosted the show. Even though the Ford Fusion is their car of the year, I was underwhelmed by the interior. The Corvette Grand Sport would be a contender in my book but that isn't a big revelation, is it?

Regarding the clubs, the SCCA and US Touring Car had a good race car display, always friendly Rick Gaan of Club Sportiva had various specials running including the Driving Experience and LeMans Karting in Fremont. The microfiber cleaning cloth guy, wallet and model car vendors had more inventory than what I've seen at major races or stores for that matter.

The pacific region of the Ferrari Club of America had some excellent variety in the upper hallway as did a local Corvette club. A small exotic car display of Lamborghini, Bentley, Rolls Royce, Lotus and Aston Martin got the mouth watering but walking into the main area was a let down.

The South Hall with multiple car club displays including Nissan Zs, Low Riders, trucks, live entertainment and dancing had excellent variety. Note to Audi club - open up those doors or hoods and reveal your mods - otherwise it's a small parking lot of drab 4-door sedans with mean looking front-mount intercoolers. Check out the slideshows to see some pictures and commentary including from the South Hall. Click here for an additional list of features of the show

Let's hope next year brings the show back to where it used to be in the South Bay.
Click here for an interesting slideshow commentary of interiors, refinements and various specific aspects.

Tuesday, January 5, 2010

Buying Tips for Performance Chips

Chips, handheld tuners, engine control units; they are all used to change the power output of an engine and the shifting of automated (automatic and automated manual) transmissions. The problem is how to choose based on their claims. Based on a friends 997 Porsche Twin Turbo shopping experience, there are certain things to be aware of and questions to ask if you're new to modding your car and there are no clear choices.

It's easy enough to buy on owners recommendations and write-ups in the forums. Not everyone is of the mindset for maximum horsepower though. Some don't even want to void their warranty. Go figure. Sometimes ownership of the car determines your choice. Not so with an LS1 Fbody (Camaro/Trans-Am). There are a ton of choices written up here.

The biggest controversy is horsepower claims. Where do the numbers come from and how are they measured? Keep in mind the biggest horsepower gain isn't always the best choice for your application.

Factors to consider are numerous. Will quality be affected? If supercharged or turbocharged, will the sparking life be shortened? Will there be an octane sensitivity other than a simple race gas tune? Is dyno tuning allowed for more exact and correct tuning or is a "canned" tune all that is available? Perhaps both are possible. Sometimes other vehicle electronic controls are tapped to control the level of the tune from stock to tuned to race gas. For example of this is using the cruise control button to select the tune. Sometimes, you just don't have a choice and have to go with what's available.

Are the horsepower claims taken directly from flywheel or from the dynometer? If taken from the flywheel, the implication is that the engine was removed and tested under controlled conditions. A time consuming and expensive process but more accurate.

If taken from the dynometer, and quoted as an estimated flywheel increase, what percentage loss are they calculating? Keeping in mind there are minor variations in production tolerances for horsepower ratings. One engineering team said 2% is allowable for their line of performance engines. An engine can also make more power when running cool vs. at normal operating temperature vs. running hot or "heat soaked". Taking all this into consideration, claims AND your results can vary wildly.

Was the car modified with intake and exhaust changes that show a greater horsepower enhancement than bone stock? Was 91 octane gas used vs. 93 octane? California is stuck with lousy 91 octane gas and therefore the goofballs at C.A.R.B. (California Air Research Board) dictate the octane auto manufacturers must comply with, among other restrictions. But other parts of the country have 93 octane available at the pump and there is and that allows for a little more power if tuned for it.

It's possible your emissions may be affected negatively. But that is why the "stock" tunes remain accessible. The performance aspect of the tune may not comply with emission requirements. But many times, the car will get better mileage.

As far as warranty concerns, some say their modified tune doesn't leave a trace when the car comes in for warranty work. Some manufacturers may claim otherwise. Well known BMW tuner Dinan matches the manufacturers' warranty and has a relationship with BMW. If your fellow owners have history, and there are a lot of established ones, enjoy that extra kick in the back and head snap with those shifts!
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Have a question about cars you would like answered? Want to know about performance, racing, modifying, shopping, makes, models, events, etc? Ask me here: AskRobAboutCars@gmail.com and I'll do my best to answer your question and publish it here on Examiner.com!

Saturday, January 2, 2010

Ask Rob About Cars 1-2-10 Exhaust systems, catalytic converters and dyno tuning

Question: I need some sound but cheap is good. What will removing the converters do? Louder? more air flow? Also about how much does a dyno tune cost?
- PJ Des Plaines, IL

Answer: Thank you PJ. Replacing the mufflers is the cheapest way for good sound without a decrease in performance. Completely removing the mufflers can rob horsepower and torque in lower rpm ranges and also have an objectionably loud sound resonance in the cabin.

Removing the catalytic converters is illegal but will also give a performance gain provided the engine adapts to the additional airflow. In a modern engines error codes will occur without "cats" and this is another reason tuning with an electronic device that addresses such codes is needed. Aftermarket high-flow catalytic converters are available to bridge the challenge of emissions with less exhaust flow restriction. Be sure to know your state laws regarding emission equipment and sound level requirements.

Dyno tuning optimizes the power potential of the engine especially when modified and for most street cars costs less than $400. When the intake and exhaust is freed up significantly, it's essential not only to optimize fuel delivery but also prevent problems by running too lean. In Northern California for example, a session which includes a baseline run and multiple "pulls" for two tunes to accommodate different octane ratings (91 octane and a race gas mixture) is $380. In other words, a tune for a 91 octane daily driving and another for race gas. This may require a separate hand-held tuner. A hand-held allows the owner to modify various parameters such as cooling fan temperatures, shift points, etc and also save the tunes on your PC for back-up purposes. Examples include the Diablosport and Hypertech are just a few tested by GM High Tech Performance in this test.
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Have a question about cars you would like answered? Want to know about performance, racing, modifying, shopping, makes, models, events, etc? Ask me here: AskRobAboutCars@gmail.com and I'll do my best to answer your question and publish it here on Examiner.com!

Tuesday, December 29, 2009

1967 Chevrolet Camaro Pro Touring review and test drive


When invited to review and drive a heavily modified classic muscle car, it's best to jump at the chance. In this case, it is a beautiful example of a "Pro Touring" car with 550 rear wheel horsepower (about 625 crank horsepower given a 12% loss) and a modernized platform.

Pro Touring typically means a classic muscle car thoroughly upgraded with a very powerful engine, an overdrive transmission suitable for the highway and track worthy modern suspension and brake components. After all that, the chassis is reinforced to eliminate body flex and enhance handling. The two major contributors to the build of this car were Gearhead Garage in Sacramento and Campbell Auto Restoration in Campbell.


This 1967 Camaro is called "Sledgehammer" and is going to be on the auction block at Russo and Steele in January. You can tell the '67s from the rest by the wing window at the A-pillar. It also has a website here with only a few updates needed. Successful small business owner Mike Bassi tells me he has over $240,000 into the car but unfortunately it's time to sell it. You may recall I met Mike at the Goodguys Car Show in Pleasanton, CA earlier this year. Mike has a racing background in the SCCA Mazda RX-7 series. He knows cars and what they are supposed to do. In fact, he and the car placed 4th out of 70 at the autocross at that show.

Lowered, menacing and a little scary looking in the garage, it fires up with a serious growl from the blown 350ci ZZ430 crate motor with some minor chirping from the supercharger. Once inside, I immediately notice how clean it is and rather comfortable. But it's noisy, in a good way. There doesn't seem to be any sound insulation and quite honestly, in this car, that's how it should be.

The dashboard controls are late-sixties basic but with Auto Meter gauges in front of the shifter. The short backed Corbeau GTS 2 seats are quite comfortable and have had the head rests cut off for a period correct look. You sit deep in them despite their appearance are a full performance seat. I would be curious to try them out for track duty to see if additional bolsterstering would needed. Another wonderful aspect of this car, setting it apart from so many muscle cars: It has air conditioning! The leather appointed interior and Porsche carpeting add further to it's immense appeal.

Riding in the car was grin inducing. It's loud despite the soundproofing but the engine and exhaust sounds were music to the ears. Driving or riding this car is like riding a Chopper. Not something you want for a cross-country trip, but perfectly capable for many miles and looks wild and sounds bad ass. If you're not in the mood for it two things happen: You either choose not to drive it or it puts you in the mood as soon as you start it up.

The suspension was stiff yet compliant. I could feel the bumps but it wasn't harsh and the movements were not conveyed as rocking motions. My first thought was "BMW" over a particularly bumpy road. The modern components look good viewed under the hood and looking low under the rear of the car. The only problem is a slight tire rubbing when a passenger is onboard during tight right hand turns. Remember this car has 275 series rear tires. The rear suspension is a Moser 12 bolt with a Truetrac rear differential.

Finally I got to drive it. And the first thought and verbalization before anything else is a deep, "Ohhh Yeahhh" with a wicked smirk. The clutch pedal is stiff but the travel is short so it works quite well. The feel is very linear and exceptionally smooth in it's engagement. The short travel takes some getting used to but the fun is immediate. The shifter is firm but quite positive with throws that were average in length. It's a modern 5 speed transmission, but it's not a Miata, of course. Steering is direct but so smooth, not a lot of feedback is felt. Then again, I wasn't on the track either but for daily driving, it was superb. Body roll was minimal. The impression I got was driving a heavy sports car. Isn't that was Pony Car is anyway?

Acceleration is fierce. The power rush above 4500rpm is especially hard, almost disorienting. I said almost. The second time at wide open throttle you're used to it. A little bit. However starting in first gear at full throttle, once in third, the scenery is blurring and you realize you've just rushed past any national speed limit and potentially going to be in a lot of trouble if there are any witnesses. It was simply glorious, raw and beastly.

Asking what he would do differently next time, and there will be a next time, Mike responded fuel injection. I would agree as well - it allows for fine tuning, longer spark plug life and better mileage. But if there is a common element in used car ads for exotics and high-end sports cars, the mileage is almost always quite low. So really, those are moot points unless you plan on keeping your love for a while, like Mike did.

Additional accolades for the car include a write-up in Chevy High Performance, "Bad to the Bone" award at the 2007 Bowtie Bash, DeAnza College and "Sweet Sweeper" at the Goodguys November 2009 show.

According to Mike, the price range for a car like this is $80k to $160k. This is an exceptional example. Contact Mike at info@tri-phase-electric.com if you're serious about buying this car.

Below are some additional build details about the car from the owner:

The engine was designed and built by Campbell Auto Restoration and is built for the procharger blower. We are running 10 pounds of boost on 91 octane with the help of a programmable water injection system, and a J&S knock sensor system that protects the engine along with the new programmable MSD6al 2 digital ignition box. The Holly 750DP was built by the carb shop and tuned by Tim Arnett.

The Transmission is a Tremic TKO 600 with a McLeod dual disk hydraulic clutch system and an aluminum flywheel. It has a Denny's nitrous ready custom driveshaft with 1350 U joints front and rear. The Moser 12 bolt rear has a 3:73 rear ratio with a true track limited slip diff and 33 spline axels. Custom dual 3 inch stainless exhaust system with x pipe design.

We are running a Hydroboost system on Baer 13 inch brakes in front 12 inch in the rear with a relocated parking brake cable. The hydroboost is incredible to use and great in road racing situations.

It has a custom RS front end and has many billet aluminum items from the custom trunk hinges to the Ring Bros hood hinges. LED lights round out the custom tail section. We replaced the stock 67 fuel location to the license plate area like the 69's. It has a custom Rick's stainless gas tank that has a check ball and fuel door system and was built for road racing so not to lose fuel during hard corning. a 2K extra option. Inside also boosts some GT2 seats from Corbeau with Morris Concept classics 3 point seat belts. We also installed Porsche Pyle carpeting throughout. It has a Momo steering wheel with a real Ferrari horn. The wiper system is from DSE. The body is rust free and has a rhino liner underneath. It has a brand new Optima battery given to me from Optima for allowing them to use the car in a show. It is running a painless wiring system, duel electric fans and a Nascar radiator. It also has AC but currently not charged, but does work when charged.

The Wheels are custom Boze forged alloys and are a one off for this car. All lights, wipers, horn, stereo and windows work. It also has brand new glass from the full body off restoration. The list of options and custom fab work is long. It has a Bud Millard Appraisal at 230k.

Sunday, December 20, 2009

Ask Rob About Cars 12-20-09

Question: What is the cost estimate on changing a ’72 Impala Custom Coupe(Hard top) into a convertible top?
-T.D. Wise

Answer: Thank you for your question! A convertible top conversion is a huge undertaking but companies have been doing it successfully for years. Figure about $15,000 to $20,000 for a professional job.

Additional structural bracing must be added as well so weight will be added. For vehicles designed with a convertible model in mind, the weight difference is negligible. A good example is the Chevrolet Corvette. For others such as the BMW 135i, the convertible is over 300lbs heavier. An aftermarket conversion means you'll feel the chassis flex over bumps and handling will be compromised. This isn't uncommon from factory convertibles as well. Other drawbacks are the value will probably be negatively affected and safety is compromised.

The process is time consuming but there are a couple of companies that have been doing it quite successfully for years with impressive results. Newport Convertible Engineering is one of them. Another is a regular SEMA participant called Drop Top Customs by Convertible Builders LLC.

Good luck and thank you for your question.
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Have a question about cars you would like answered? Want to know about performance, racing, modifying, shopping, makes, models, events, etc? Ask me here: AskRobAboutCars@gmail.com and I'll do my best to answer your question and publish it here on Examiner.com!

Sunday, December 13, 2009

Drag racing tips for your street car

Many amateur drag racers already know the tricks, tips and techniques to help their car go faster and more quickly at the dragstrip. However, there could be a few you're not aware of. Additionally, there is one potential major misconception and a technique for automatic and perhaps manual transmission cars that could be key as well. Listed are some obvious old-school and some not so obvious tips due to rampant electronics in modern cars.

Weight reduction - easily established by racing with a low tank of fuel. Modern fuel injected cars won't run lean with less fuel - don't worry. Remove the spare tire, etc. Removing rear seats (if equipped) is not uncommon. However, a totally stripped interior, if a daily driver or even weekend car, just really looks cheap and junky unless the interior is purpose built and finished for racing. Edit: Extra weight in the rear may allow for a lower 60-foot time and hence lower ET while making only a minor difference in trap speed. Experimentation is the key. 

Run cooler - icing the intake manifold. Cold air is denser air which translates to more horsepower. A hot engine will heat incoming air. There isn't much that can be done with the ambient air temperature, but running extra hot doesn't help. Without going deeply into modifications, a lower temperature thermostat is used for this reason. Push your car if feasible instead of the stop-n-go in the staging lanes. There are handheld tuning tools and even fusebox modifications that allow the cooling fans to start and run at lower than factory-set temperatures. Being the only guy pushing your nearly 2-ton car gets old real fast.

Something you may not know regarding running cooler. Some cars actually make more horsepower due to fuel programming when coolant temperatures are below 180 degrees vs. the normal operating temperatures of 200 degrees or higher. The balance of engine temperature, fuel economy and emissions is altered when seeking maximum power at wide open throttle.

Tires - lower tire pressure may very well be worse for two reasons. Losing traction from lack of grip means sitting and spinning while your opponent is accelerating. Also, if there is an increase in the rolling resistance of the tires, that is a parasitic drag. Every little bit counts when counting in tenths of a second or miles per hour.

When equipped with high performance low-profile tires which have stiff sidewalls, a common misconception is that if you lower the tire pressure significantly, you'll have more traction. This is because racing slicks use lower tire pressure to soften the sidewalls and increase the size of the contact patch. If the modern low-profile tires have structurally stiff sidewalls, less air will mean less contact patch in the center of the tire while the sidewalls maintain their stiffness. What is very important here is knowing how your tires respond to air pressure. Unless there is an established technique that is getting 60ft times below 2.0 seconds, try starting with pressure in the high 30s and work your way down. You may find a range that your car performs the best is far higher than those that are running 22psi in their low-profile 35 or 45 series high performance tires.

One last point regarding tires. The smoky burnouts look and sound fun, but do it for too long and a street tire can become slippery rather than sticky. A general rule used for non-drag radial street tires is do it just long enough to see smoke, then stop.

Fold your mirrors inward. Minor I know, it sounds silly, but trapping at 109.9mph vs. 110 can be frustrating. The competitors at the Bonneville Salt Flats who use duct tape to seal body gaps wouldn't laugh. Do you think that's allowed at the Texas Mile?

If equipped with adaptive shock absorbers, the "comfort" mode may allow for more weight transfer to the rear, facilitating better traction and a better launch. Conversely, "comfort" mode may also trigger a slower shift from the transmission with more slippage and even at a lower rpm. Who the heck drag races a car with a "comfort mode" anyway? Well, Mercedes Benz E55 owners with smaller-than-stock supercharger pulleys have been known to run 10-second quarter mile times. Crazy but it really pays to know how the various electronics influence the behavior of the vehicle.

Use a toilet brush to scrape debris off the tires. Buy a new one at the grocery store (please) and before you get in the staging lanes, a quick scrub will remove some of the larger debris. Does it work? Well I'd say it doesn't hurt. Pebbles in the tread can cause voids in the contact patch.

Related to the toilet brush, VHT track bite traction compound helps immensely for traction off the line. Spray after taking off the debris and preferably by crew member after doing a brief burnout on your street tires. Granted, if track prep is fresh, this probably isn't necessary. At some tracks, it's essential for street tire cars. I wouldn't be surprised if some of the street tire equipped cars that run fantastic times do this during track rental days.

Adaptive transmissions and electronics can be the most confusing and impactful of the various necessary steps to run the best times. It's important understand your car and how it reacts. Read up on the forums from other owners for their techniques. Others may do certain routines not even realizing why they seem to work. I'll list examples of how some cars respond to various inputs.

A slow diagnostic transmission shift may occur after start-up. Not noticed during daily driving, but at full-throttle, it could be painfully apparent, hurting trap speeds. One resolution I'm aware of is to drive over 20mph before lining up at the lights so the initial 2nd to 3rd gear shift is done. Even a single or dual clutch automated manual might do this. At some dragstrips like Infineon Raceway at Sears Point, the staging lanes are so close to the "christmas tree" this occurs.

Manually shifting the automatic transmission, while not as consistent, may make for firmer shifts. On the other hand, another car may shift better if simply left in "Drive". Further complicating things nowadays some mechanical tachometers actually can't keep up with the engine speed which means easily "banging" off the rev limiter when manually shifting while trying to judge the optimum shift rpm. Hitting the rev limiter means blowing your run and maybe losing. Lexus actually has a digitally simulated tachometer for this very reason in the new LF-A. Remember, this can apply to automatics, dual clutch and single clutch automated manual transmissions.

Lastly, when you sometimes pull the fuse to the transmission, it resets the "adaptives". What this means is some types transmissions will "learn" how you were driving previously and mimic that. For example, if you're idling at the stoplight waiting to enter the track, slowly driving to tech inspection and finally in the pits, your transmission could possibly store this and repeat this in the form of sluggish yet smooth shifts. Pulling the fuse will reset it to the default setting and the wide-open throttle will signal faster and firmer shifts. This can really make for a literal checklist.

Modern cars with all the electronics that make our lives easier and safer also are a pain in the butt to extract the maximum performance they are capable of. Keep in mind the basics - keep it cool, learn how your tires react to air pressure changes and finally learn how the electronic nannies hurt or help your car.
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Have a question about cars you would like answered? Want to know about performance, racing, modifying, shopping, makes, models, events, etc? Ask me here: AskRobAboutCars@gmail.com and I'll do my best to answer your question and publish it here on Examiner.com!

Friday, December 11, 2009

Tesla updates and changes for 2010: T1 vs. T2


Test driving the 2010 Roadster Sport was an eye opening experience. Keeping in mind the 2009 model year was skipped without a one-year break, the improvements are significant. Here are some changes from the 2008 (T1) to the 2010 (T2).

The interior has been upgraded and features a push button "drive" selector vs. a lever. The video display screen was moved to the central dash area. It gives various information such as estimated range, power regenerated, number of barrels of oil saved, etc.

Enhanced battery cooling is also part of more powerful and quicker cabin cooling (air conditioning) as well as heating and overall ventilation.

Toggling between performance and "max range" is done by turning the key, even with driving. Needless to say, during my test drive I kept in the Performance mode notated by a tiny "P" in the upper right corner of the display screen.

A variety of sound-deadening techniques were utilized to reduce noise, vibration and harshness (NVH). One of the interesting methods was the use of pellets in a chassis side rail that expand by 5,000 percent during the adhesive heat cycling to eliminate rattles. Adhesives are used throughout virtually all automobiles. If you strip the interior and sound deadening material, any car is going to have some interesting squeaks and rattles. Tesla is obviously striving for improvements for mainstream appeal rather than kit-car refinement.

The Roadster Sport 215 kilowatt motor produces 288hp and 295 ft lbs of torque and is most noticeable up to 5,100rpm. As you can see from this graph from Motorcyclist magazine , power will fall off at higher speeds. I predict one of the next major improvements will be a multi-speed transmission that not only will make for great acceleration, but potentially a longer range during highway usage. You may remember the first generation T1 had a two speed transmission put problems meant abandoning it for a single-speed fixed gear. You can see Tesla's technical specs here.

The options available seem to be areas of profit as opposed to some seeming to be package deals. Quite clever - the vast majority of buyers can afford it and I would guess they contribute significantly to the margin of revenue. Remember, low volume doesn't make for discount prices. The Executive Leather Interior is $,6000. Alternately the Premium Carbon Fiber and Leather Interior is $9,000. Keep in mind this is a two-seater. A body color hardtop is $3,200 or $5,000 for carbon fiber. Exterior carbon fiber treatment is $9,000. The most common question - how much is a replacement battery? It's $12,000. A replacement engine for a high-end car can be far more costly.

While it doesn't appeal to everyone, Tesla has established credibility, viability and continue to evolve their daily driver. Their initial product, a high performance car that never needs gasoline, a high price-point (including the options) for profitability is a proven platform for further development before going mainstream. Will the T3 feature a multi-speed transmission? Perhaps it will have artificial intelligence...

Check out my test drive of the 2010 Roadster Sport here.
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Have a question about cars you would like answered? Want to know about performance, racing, modifying, shopping, makes, models, events, etc? Ask me here: AskRobAboutCars@gmail.com and I'll do my best to answer your question and publish it here on Examiner.com!